This is what it looks like. That’s the small area where my bubbles from my CO2 come out of.

It seems like a harmless slime mold of bacteria. It looks crappy but it should be completely harmless. You can suck it off but it will probably come back.
You should get a standard CO2diffusor if you want the slime mold completely gone. Besides I talked to other aquarists and they told me that he CO2 will kill the air stone in some time because it dissolve the glue in the air stone. I recommend a flipper like in the link and no ceramic diffusor because I don’t think the pressure will be enough.



This is what it looks like. That’s the small area where my bubbles from my CO2 come out of.

It seems like a harmless slime mold of bacteria. It looks crappy but it should be completely harmless. You can suck it off but it will probably come back.

You should get a standard CO2diffusor if you want the slime mold completely gone. Besides I talked to other aquarists and they told me that he CO2 will kill the air stone in some time because it dissolve the glue in the air stone. I recommend a flipper like in the link and no ceramic diffusor because I don’t think the pressure will be enough.

Reblogged from muchos-sass

latetothepartay asked:

I dose my small aquarium (5.5 gallons) with flourish every other day. Would it be fine if I left it for 2 weeks with no fertilizer? The tank has anubias, java ferns, vallisneria, and some hygrophilia. I don't want to come back from break to find all my plants dead 😥

Hi, it shouldn’t be a problem if you don’t have a very strong light source over your tank. Do you have breaks in the illumination over the day (for example lights are on from 8am-1pm then break and switch off and from 4pm-9pm switch on again)? If so you shouldn’t get any problems.

This is how you should do it:

  • The day before you leave you do a big water change (60-80%)
  • Then you dose for one week (simply 7 × daily dose)
  • Enjoy your vacation!

That should be fine for the plants and animals. In any case the plants won’t die if you stop fertilizing but you might get algae. But they will vanish again when you fertilize again :) So no worries! 



"GÉNESIS" Aquscaping by DendroAcua.

Compartimos la evolución de este paisaje acuático que tenemos expuesto en nuestra tienda.

Este pequeño acuario de tan solo 15l cumple 3 meses desde que realizamos su montaje. Para celebrarlo, quisimos convertir sus aguas transparentes, en lo que se denomina “Aguas negras” o “Aguas prietas”.

Al contrario de lo que muchos piensan, estas aguas teñidas de color “te” no están sucias.

Paradójicamente, estas aguas son en realidad más transparentes que las aguas “blancas” que todos conocemos. Esto ocurre debido a su baja carga de sedimentos y la baja concentración de nutrientes. 

Si analizaríamos el pH de estas aguas en su origen así como en este acuario, nos encontraríamos con un agua ácida con muy baja conductividad.

El color tan característico proviene de los taninos, ácidos húmicos, fenol y otros compuestos procedentes de la materia vegetal muerta que se acumula en los suelos de los bosques que rodean las aguas.

Este fenómeno se puede apreciar en zonas como los manglares, ciénagas y sabanas inundadas. 

Es nuestra admiración y respeto por la naturaleza que hizo que diéramos un paso más hacia la naturalidad en este acuario.

Tiñendo las aguas de “Génesis" de color ámbar, nos trasportamos a los ríos de nuestro mundo y observamos un fenómeno desconocido por muchos pero tan beneficioso para el ecosistema.

Esperemos que os guste tanto como a nosotros.

Saludos, DendroAcua.

Reblogged from aquariadise

Anonymous asked:

Do you think a planted tank would fare all right being left dark for a week-long trip? I don't use CO2 (but I do dose Seachem Excel), and the plants in question are some java fern, assorted anubias, dwarf sag, and frogbit. I don't want to have to worry about a timer, and figured the plants won't suffer too badly from a short blackout, (since 72+ hour blackouts are used to fight algae). Do you think it would be all right? :)

It’s totally fine to have no lights for about 2 weeks.

You just listed slow growing plants so they won’t suffer in any kind of way through the blackout ;) If it’s too hot outside and the water is heating up, it’s also an option to switch off the lights (if it’s not LED it heats up the water quite a bit) so no worries.


What is Aquarium Cycling? How to Cycle your Tank


What is aquarium cycling? It has been my unfortunate experience in my 7 years of fish keeping that the majority of casual fish keepers have no idea what the answer to this question is. This article hopes to explain what cycling is, how to do it and how to avoid accidentally killing your fish. It is not the most in depth explination, but I hope it gives you at least a general sense. At the very bottom I have included some very useful links.

Whenever I ask someone “Did you cycle your tank before adding fish?” most answer “Yes.” I always have to ask the follow up question “How did you cycle it?” to which I am always answered “Well, I let it sit for a day/a couple days/a week/a couple weeks.”

Cycling is not letting your tank sit for any amount of time before adding fish. Cycling is referring to the nitrogen cycle, which only takes place after fish or some source of ammonia is added to your tank.

The aquarium cycle can be confusing and daunting for any new aquarist. Water chemistry? Water tests? Bacteria and nitrates and stuff I don’t understand! Please, for the sake of your fish at least have a general understanding of cycling. It is the most important aspect of keeping fish in captivity and without it or an understanding of it it’s nearly impossible to keep fish alive and healthy for any substantial amount of time. Indeed, the leading cause of fish death is an improperly cycled and maintained tank. That’s right, whenever a fish dies it’s almost always your fault for improper care. It’s hard to hear, especially for newcomers, but it’s true.

So what is cycling?

  • Cycling is the build up of beneficial bacteria in porous surfaces in your aquarium (your sand or gravel bed, your filter pad/sponge, rocks, and even some in your water itself) which then breaks down toxic ammonia (NH3 or in low pH levels ammonium NH4+) into slightly less toxic nitrites (NO2-) and then into even less toxic nitrates (NO3-). Nitrates eventually leave the aquarium in the form of nitrogen gas. These bacteria are gram negative anaerobic (preferring little or no oxygen) nitrobacter and nitrosoma.

Here is a visual aid:image


The Process

  • The simple answer: You add fish or some other source of ammonia. Bacteria builds up in your filter pad and breaks that down into less toxic nitrites, and then into even less toxic nitrates. This can take anywhere from 6 weeks and up to happen, and it is important to test your water during this time. If you have fish in the aquarium, you must perform frequent water changes to keep your ammonia levels at 0. Contrary to popular belief this does not slow down or interrupt your cycle.
  • The long answer: Every organism had some nitrogen in it, it’s essential to all life. Every organism you add to your tank releases nitrogens. Plants, fish, live rock, corals, even food. This nitrogen (ammonia) is toxic to fish, snails, shrimp, and anything else really. Beneficial bacterial colonize (i.e “glue themselves to) things like the “media” in your filter. Sponges, filter floss, ceramic, and volcanic rock are all good surfaces for bacteria to colonize on but it also lives in your gravel and any other surface it can cling to.
  • This bacteria (nitrosoma) are autotrophic, which means they produce complex organic compounds from simple inorganic ones to produce energy. These bacteria need some oxygen and water flow to colonize, which is another reason why most of your bacteria is in your filter media. So after ammonia is introduced the nitrosoma break it down into nitrites which is when the nitrobacter come in and break that down into nitrates. These nitrates are then either absorbed by plants (later to be released in the form of dead leaves) or turned into gas and evaporate. Fresh water fish tolerate nitrates in a huge range. Some species are fine with 15ppm, and some as high as 40ppm. Saltwater fish are much more sensitive and nitrates should be kept close to 0 at all times. 

Methods of Cycling

There are a few different methods of cycling. If you already have fish in an uncycled tank, please scroll down to that section immediately. A fishless cycle is the use of some ammonia source that is not a fish, thereby eliminating the danger of killing your fish by exposure to ammonia and nitrites. Popular sources include pure ammonia (free of fragrances, “surfacants”, dyes, etc.Shake the bottle. If it foams, it’s not safe.) seeding, and fish food (dry or frozen though it’s been my experience that frozen works better)

  • The ammonia method. This is probably the best method aside from seeding as it does not involve putting fish in harms way, using food which can attract saprolegnia (a fungus) and is relatively inexpensive. Add 3-5 drops of ammonia per US gallon of water until your ammonia is 3-4ppm. (scroll down for the section on water testing) Wait 20 minutes or so and test again, if needed raise the ammonia again. Continue this (keeping your ammonia at 4ppm) and you will see your nitrites spike and fall, then your nitrates. Once you have nitrates of 40ppm or so you can perform one large (50-80% depending on your levels) water change and add fish!
  • The fish food method. This is by far the easiest and least expensive method, but has the drawback of attracting mold and fungus. Rotting food is decomposed by saprolegnia, an infection which can spread to fish. “Feed” the tank daily, attaining an ammonia level of 4ppm just like with the previous method. Simply add more food and keep the ammonia there and cycle it just like the ammonia method. I have tried this personally with success. The only extra step is making sure you siphon out any and all rotten food.
  • Seeding. This is using used filter media from an establish (cycled) tank to jump-start your new tank. Use a sponge, filter floss, ceramic blocks, or volcanic rock and simply put them in your new tanks filter. Wait 2-3 days and slowly start introducing fish, while testing the water daily and performing any water changes as needed.
  • Bottled Products. Ok, more sorta complicated stuff ahead. Most bottled products do not contain nitrosoma and nitrobacter, but instead contain heterotrophic bacteria, which have a reasonable shelf life and much higher reproductive rate than true nitrifying bacteria which are autotrophic. Their drawback, however, is that they are not nearly as good as breaking down ammonia as true nitrifying bacteria so it takes much more of them to do the job. Many if not most of these products do not work. Either they do not contain the right kind of bacteria or it is dead.
  • The only products that work to my knowledge are; Biospira (Now Dr. Tim’s One and Only and Tetra Safestart), SeaChem Stability, and FritzZyme TurboStart 700. Keep in mind that heterotrophs cannot truly cycle an aquarium and should only be used as an aid to deal with ammonia spikes.

Fish-In Cycling

You have fish, you put them in a new tank, and suddenly you’re hearing all about this cycling stuff for the first time. What do you do? Go out and purchase a liquid test kit (API is the most commonly available brand) an aquarium siphon, and a 5 gallon bucket from a hardware store. These will be your tools. Without them, you may very well kill your fish.

"But I’ve always done it this way! I just get cheap hardy fish and add them to the tank first." In this case, you’ve always done it the wrong way. Tell me, how many times have you lost fish this way? How long did your fish live AFTER this? Chances are you’ve been doing everything wrong and you haven’t kept any of your fish alive for their whole lifespan. Sure, things like guppies only live 3 years but many tetras live to be 7-8 and goldfish live to be 15-20!

Keep your filter and heater running like normal and test your water every day. As soon as you see any ammonia or nitrites, do at least a 25% water change. Make sure to siphon your gravel as well as remove water. Otherwise feces and food just sits there and rots. Always replace water with tap water that is close to the temperature of the tank and has been treated for chlorine/chloramines/heavy metals with some kind of water conditioner or RO (reverse osmosis) water. Continue this for at least 6 weeks, or until you have nitrates of 15-40ppm. Then you can do water changes at a regular rate. Which varies wildly depending on your tank size, which fish you have, how many you have, if you have live plants, how often you feed them, and what kind of filter you have.

Test Kits

Test kits are extremely important. Water can be crystal clear and deadly to fish! Dirty water does not mean cloudy water. Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Incorporated (API) sells a decent liquid test kit that is suitable for home use. However, it is never 100% accurate. If you’re looking for lab quality results, a test kit meant for chemists like this

Never use test strips unless you are simply test pH. All other test strips are, in general, so inaccurate or likely to be compromised/damaged and not work they are a waste of money.

Here are some very VERY good reads that go a lot more in depth than I am able to. I highly recommend reading them, or at least the first one.





Guys i live so close to kai-ni i could literally bike or walk to her house holy shit WHY WAS I NEVER AWARE





YOU COULD COME GET ZION KISSES (ie he tries to eat your fingers)




I would need to fly over the fucking atlantic ocean

Which subject is interesting for you?


I was thinking about writing more articles here since I want to learn to express my knowledge also in the English language. I’d be happy if you give me short feedback which of these subjects would be interesting for you:

  1. Water values change (aka Why water changing is important in freshwater aq, a comparison of test values before and after a water change)
  2. The key to a healthy planted tank (aka Fertilizations, light and substrate) //this would be long, I would probably cut this into three separate topics//
  3. A guide to CO2 (aka DIY CO2, pressurized CO2 (not very detailed since I never had pressurized CO2  I’ll get information from aquaowner yay!) and why you might need it in a planted tank)
  4. Low tech plants and why they’re plain awesome
  5. Fast growing plants and why they’re important in a planted tech tank
  6. Which animals are suitable in a Nano tank (<10 gal)
  7. Water testing: What is really necessary
  8. Tab water or osmosis water – which substances are dangerous for which animals and why you should think about a reverse osmosis system
  9. Aquaria equipment: What you really need and what is nice to have
  10. Different shrimp, different needs: A guide to freshwater shrimp keeping
  11. Beginners Guide: How to decide what I want and how to begin efficiently
  12. Salt water Nano aquaria: is it even possible? What do I need to get started? //first-hand knowledge from other people but I sit on good sources//

For all topics apply that I am no super duper expert. I have no knowledge of most fish, pressurized CO2 and a lot of other stuff. I will just write my own experiences with stuff, situations and first-hand knowledge of other people. I don’t know most technical terms and maybe you’ll encounter words in my articles where you’ll think “wtf?”. Feel free to tell me then (please!) so I can learn. I am no native speaker and need to look up most terms. Thank you! :) 


PS: You can find already existing articles here.